Monday, 29 December 2008

Strange sights

My office is in a the business area of town. Many businesses such as Petrol Ofisi, HSBC, Deloitte and Akbank have their headquarters located here. It is busy and chaotic to say the least.
When you think of business area you think of a downtown area like Manhattan, or like in Melbourne the CBD (central business district). My office is situated in one of the highest towers in this area with all the mod cons you could imagine from retina eye scan automated entry to automated lifts where there are no buttons inside the lift.
But when you look from above, the 14th floor I mean, things take on a different perspective. To the back side of the building you can see one of the hundreds of military zones in Istanbul with soldiers patrolling and training. You can see the fresh new construction of 'Mashattan', and directly below you can see where the endless trash from the construction zone has been buried in some kind of makeshift landfill which reeks and houses endless mosquito's which enter in through any open window even 14 floors up, but lets not get me started on that.
From another window you can see the remains of what used to be here. About three or four gecekondu style houses made of up of things picked up from the roadside or left over PVC sheeting, old tiles and plastic crates stacked up by the hundreds strewn all over the place. Yes, people do live here. In the middle of a business area. They own a couple of cows too which are kept in a flimsy backyard which faces one of the three roads that lead in and out of the area. And to walk by there is no pleasant trip, believe you me, there is a stench that lingers and in summer time is a challenge to anyone's lunch meal.
Today I went to visit someone in their office and from the corner of my eye, I caught a glimpse of something moving slowly along the road that runs in front of the military zone. It was a group of nine cows, one after the other, following each other down a road. There was no shepherd (or whatever the correct name is for a cow hearder) or any person for that matter in sight leading this pack. In between the pack were three young calf. They didn't seem bothered by the cars swerving around them or tooting at them and moseyed on their merry way. I couldn't believe the sight I was seeing. Cows in a downtown area. I just could not imagine seeing such a sight in Melbourne. I was truly astonished. I wish I had my camera with me to take a snap shot.
It's just another day in Istanbul......

Wednesday, 24 December 2008

Merry Christmas!

To all my family and friends here and at home, I hope you all have a very Merry Christmas and a happy and joy filled New Year!


It finally started to snow here and the temperature has dropped significantly. It feels a little like Christmas, but not quite like home where my dad is firing up the barbie and my sister is preparing a seafood spread.

Take care everyone and enjoy your holidays!!

Thursday, 18 December 2008

Things I love...

Yesterday I wrote about what I missed the most about home. Today, I want to share what I love most about Istanbul.

1. Food glorious food!!

2. Warm, friendly, hospitable Turks.

3. Excellent metro system - frequent and rarely any problems (so far!)

4. The Bosphorus.

5. Çay!

6. The sights and sounds of Sultanahmet.

7. Credit card 'taksit' - if you pay by credit card, you can spread the payment over however many months you like!

8. Discount for cash! And not just in Sultanahmet. I bought shoes in Nine West recently and they gave me a 10% discount for cash!

9. Cheaper labour = more affordable services. From 10YTL blow waves to car washing/vac for less than 10YTL, tailoring pants for a fiver, or even for free. Yes, the tailor fixed something up for me for free!

10. Para Puan. Points accumulated on credit card can be spent like cash. We paid for 50YTL of supermarket shopping with points!

11. Dolmuş. Small version of a bus, but operated privately. One any route, it will stop where ever you want. Great service!

12. Akbil. An electronic key that you load money onto to pay for trips on transport like bus, metro, tram, funicular, sea bus and ferry, but not the dolmuş. The fare is 10% lower than using the standard token. Australia should get onto this!!

13. Cheaper public transport. On all of the above forms of transport-regardless of distance- is 1.20YTL. Love it!

14. Taxi's. Easy to find and cheap to use!

15. Fish and fish restaurants. You can eat a great meal of fresh fish caught from the Black Sea of Bosphorus for less than 15YTL.

16. Open hours. Most malls and shops are open for longer hours. Malls usually from 10am to 10pm, 7 days.

17. Buy now, pay later. Sometimes if you don't have the right change and the local shop, bakkal, doesn't have any either, they tell you to pay next time, no problems at all. Even in a taxi twice, the drive had no change, so it was a free ride. This would never happen at home!

18. Diverse areas of town from Bebek to Balat.

19. Never ending list of things to see, do and learn about.

20. Snow! The first country I have lived in where it truly snows in winter. An amazing sight for someone from Australia!

Tuesday, 16 December 2008

Things I miss.....

Being far away from the Motherland makes me realise all the things we take for granted in what is described as the lucky country. It goes without saying that I miss family and friends the most, but I wanted to list those small things that I miss most on a day to day level that we don't really think about until we don't have them, and of course, some of my favourites things that I long for.
So here is my top 20 list of things I miss.
1. Silence. Melbourne, or it's suburbs, is far more quiet than Istanbul.
2. Lack of traffic. There is no such thing as a traffic jam in Melbourne. If you think there is, you haven't been here yet.
3. Easy to find organic produce and health food and a huge range of organic/free range foods and products. I could create a list within this list.
4. Proper coffee. Italian lattes, with soy milk.
5. Cruising in my own wheels with the music up.
6. Being able to park your car in your own driveway and not have to drive around in the late hours to find a space next to a bus shelter 50 metres from your front door.
7. The ease at which you can move around the city; by car, tram, train, bus, by bike in a specified bicycle lane, or on foot without risking braking your ankle on the poorly constructed footpath.
8. Minimal overcrowding in most places.
9. People know how to form a queue and stay in it. Here, people don't hesitate to jump a line no matter who or where you are and think nothing of it.
10. Lack of red tape/bureaucracy/corruption in day to day living.
11. The air.
12. The cost of a membership to a gym being so affordable and not considered a luxury.
13. Political stability and a fairly stable dollar (ok, maybe not right now).
14. Multiculturalism and diversity.
15. Respect for the environment.
16. The Tofu shop.
17. Little Collins Street.
18. The price of petrol.
19. Recycling everything.
20. BBQ's in your own backyard.

Friday, 12 December 2008

Sacrifices: big and small

Just back from a week of holiday for the Muslim holiday of Kurban Bayram, translated directly as the Feast of the Sacrifice, as it is known in Turkey, or Eid al-Adha, in other parts of the Muslim world.


I know there are many of you reading who know all about Bayram and what is represents, but for those who don't I'll give you some info and my impressions.


Basically, the sacrifice of an animal demonstrates the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his son Ishmael as an act of obedience of God, although God provided an animal (a ram) in Ishmael's place once Abraham had demonstrated his willingness to obey God's commands.


Throughout Turkey you will find animals on the back of trucks being lead to slaughter and in bigger cities you can find abattoir style places where animals can be purchased and sacrificed from as opposed to front gardens and parks which was the case in years past!


The meat from the slaughter is then shared between families, themselves and people in need who cannot otherwise afford to buy meat. It is said that this is to remind Muslims that all things (wealth, animals, food, etc) are from God and must be shared among his people.


It was an interesting week for me, to say the least. I kind of expected to rest and laze about reading books, playing sudoku and eating too much. Although I managed to do all three, I also played housewife and host, tea and coffee maker, butcher, dishwasher and farm hand.


My husband and his brother attended the sacrifice early on the first day of Bayram with the butcher. Afterwards, they returned to the house with half the meat, the other half was given to my husband's aunt and uncle who had shared the cost of the animal. There I helped cut, separate and package the meat and then helped cook 'kavurma' which is a tasty, but cholesterol filled, meal of stewed meat, usually cooked in its own fat.


After the meat was dealt with, guests started to arrive to give Bayram greetings. My husband's father is not well and cannot get about easily, so people he would usually visit, came to visit him. I served the endless guests cups of tea and traditional Bayram desserts of 'ev baklava' (homemade baklava) and 'kadayfi' (shredded pastry with nuts and sugar syrup) and offered rounds of chocolates and plates of fruit. I was up and down from the kitchen to the living room so many times it was like my old waitressing days.


Turkish hospitality is a serious business. There is proper order in which things should take place; like who is served first- usually the oldest person in the group is served tea and dessert first followed by those other senior people. There are certain people who you greet with a handshake and other who you greet with the more formal kiss of the back of the hand which is then touched to your forehead before kissing each cheek from right to left. In many homes in Anatolia, there are no big couches and people sit on the floor on pillows. If there is a couch, it should be given up for others.


I found it quite stressful to remember who to serve first, who's hand I should or should not kiss and so on. We don't practice these kinds of cultural customs back home and usually tend to greet people with a handshake, hug and or kiss. Individuals, regardless of age, are generally considered equals and there is no 'pecking' order as such. Children, teenagers and young adults are generally free to do what they want and not have to hang around the adults, but 'n Turkey I find that they tend to sit around and listen intently to the older folks speaking. Not being present when guests have come can be considered rude and disrespectful.


Now that my husband's sister is not in Turkey anymore, I feel like I have filled her space as the 'Gelin' (translated as bride or daughter-in-law) and now have to step up which is quite difficult given she was a typical Turkish daughter who lived at home until she was married and did everything that her parents asked of her and she was content with being a great Turkish host. My idea of hospitality is slightly less stressful, but now I find myself 'checking' my relaxed style and wondering if I need to learn a thing or two from these people.


My husband's mother is a very hard working woman. She worked in the garden for many hours, even though it had snowed for the first night and day we were there and the temperatures were below zero. She barbecued, baked and cooked the whole week and served everyone without complaint. She cleaned and vacuumed the house and never asked for help. She carried fire wood and loaded the two fire heaters the whole week, early in the morning and late at night. I'm not sure I am much of a match to her!


On the morning of the sacrifice, once my husband had returned to the house, we all offered our Bayram blessings and greetings to the parents. I took Baba's hand and kissed it and put it to my head and then hugged him. As I hugged him, he cried. I looked at my husband and asked why he was crying and he said "it's because you are here, you're here with him, you're here with us".


I guess I could call this is my sacrifice.