Friday, 12 December 2008

Sacrifices: big and small

Just back from a week of holiday for the Muslim holiday of Kurban Bayram, translated directly as the Feast of the Sacrifice, as it is known in Turkey, or Eid al-Adha, in other parts of the Muslim world.


I know there are many of you reading who know all about Bayram and what is represents, but for those who don't I'll give you some info and my impressions.


Basically, the sacrifice of an animal demonstrates the willingness of Abraham to sacrifice his son Ishmael as an act of obedience of God, although God provided an animal (a ram) in Ishmael's place once Abraham had demonstrated his willingness to obey God's commands.


Throughout Turkey you will find animals on the back of trucks being lead to slaughter and in bigger cities you can find abattoir style places where animals can be purchased and sacrificed from as opposed to front gardens and parks which was the case in years past!


The meat from the slaughter is then shared between families, themselves and people in need who cannot otherwise afford to buy meat. It is said that this is to remind Muslims that all things (wealth, animals, food, etc) are from God and must be shared among his people.


It was an interesting week for me, to say the least. I kind of expected to rest and laze about reading books, playing sudoku and eating too much. Although I managed to do all three, I also played housewife and host, tea and coffee maker, butcher, dishwasher and farm hand.


My husband and his brother attended the sacrifice early on the first day of Bayram with the butcher. Afterwards, they returned to the house with half the meat, the other half was given to my husband's aunt and uncle who had shared the cost of the animal. There I helped cut, separate and package the meat and then helped cook 'kavurma' which is a tasty, but cholesterol filled, meal of stewed meat, usually cooked in its own fat.


After the meat was dealt with, guests started to arrive to give Bayram greetings. My husband's father is not well and cannot get about easily, so people he would usually visit, came to visit him. I served the endless guests cups of tea and traditional Bayram desserts of 'ev baklava' (homemade baklava) and 'kadayfi' (shredded pastry with nuts and sugar syrup) and offered rounds of chocolates and plates of fruit. I was up and down from the kitchen to the living room so many times it was like my old waitressing days.


Turkish hospitality is a serious business. There is proper order in which things should take place; like who is served first- usually the oldest person in the group is served tea and dessert first followed by those other senior people. There are certain people who you greet with a handshake and other who you greet with the more formal kiss of the back of the hand which is then touched to your forehead before kissing each cheek from right to left. In many homes in Anatolia, there are no big couches and people sit on the floor on pillows. If there is a couch, it should be given up for others.


I found it quite stressful to remember who to serve first, who's hand I should or should not kiss and so on. We don't practice these kinds of cultural customs back home and usually tend to greet people with a handshake, hug and or kiss. Individuals, regardless of age, are generally considered equals and there is no 'pecking' order as such. Children, teenagers and young adults are generally free to do what they want and not have to hang around the adults, but 'n Turkey I find that they tend to sit around and listen intently to the older folks speaking. Not being present when guests have come can be considered rude and disrespectful.


Now that my husband's sister is not in Turkey anymore, I feel like I have filled her space as the 'Gelin' (translated as bride or daughter-in-law) and now have to step up which is quite difficult given she was a typical Turkish daughter who lived at home until she was married and did everything that her parents asked of her and she was content with being a great Turkish host. My idea of hospitality is slightly less stressful, but now I find myself 'checking' my relaxed style and wondering if I need to learn a thing or two from these people.


My husband's mother is a very hard working woman. She worked in the garden for many hours, even though it had snowed for the first night and day we were there and the temperatures were below zero. She barbecued, baked and cooked the whole week and served everyone without complaint. She cleaned and vacuumed the house and never asked for help. She carried fire wood and loaded the two fire heaters the whole week, early in the morning and late at night. I'm not sure I am much of a match to her!


On the morning of the sacrifice, once my husband had returned to the house, we all offered our Bayram blessings and greetings to the parents. I took Baba's hand and kissed it and put it to my head and then hugged him. As I hugged him, he cried. I looked at my husband and asked why he was crying and he said "it's because you are here, you're here with him, you're here with us".


I guess I could call this is my sacrifice.

9 comments:

Ardent said...

What a lovely post Renai. I even had tears well in my eyes at the end. You know elderly people become very emotional as they age and their health begins to fade.
I think they cry because they love the moment and have no idea how long they have to share with their family.
My father would cry all the time. If we went on holiday he would cry, even though we would only be gone for a week.

I must admit that you did a very good job playing the gelin.

pisipati said...

Hello Renai,I'm Elif from Istanbul and your post is really wonderful,you are a great ''Gelin''.They are lucky to have a dauther in law like you.

renai said...

Ardent, thanks for your kind words. Actually, when he cried, I had tears in my eyes. It's very hard not to when a grown man is holding you and crying. You really nailed it with your comment about why they cry. Turks generally are so emotional too. His mother cries when we drive out of the drive way to head back to Istanbul, everytime. For 10 years my husband worked in toruism and never could spend a Bayram with them and would maybe see them once per year. They love it that we go there and spend the time now. Even though the hospitality factor can overwhelm me, I try to remind myself of the happiness they gain from us being with them.

pisipati, thanks for stopping by. I am trying to be the good 'gelin'. It's not always easy though!! I tried to check out your blog but not sure you have one? If you do, I would love to see it.

pisipati said...

Sorry,I don't have a blog Renai,your name is interesting:-)

Nevin said...

Very sweet, emotional and thought provoking article; Family, tradition, trying to fit into a new culture, learning new customs and love... lots of love!

I am a Turkish woman living in the US. We also have a "Gelin" in our family who is American. (my brother's wife). I forwarded your blog to her. I am sure she will identify with you in many respects. :)
Good night from NYC...

renai said...

hi Nevin, thanks for your kind words. being in Turkey is definitely interesting, challenging and rewarding all at the same time. i am blessed with a lovely set of in-laws and extended family who have open their hearts to me without question. I have experienced nothing but love and compassion from Turkish people so far. Does your sister-in-law have blog?
I'll be taking a look at your blog very soon.
renai.

Unknown said...

Hi Renai,

I am the sister-in-law Gelin of Nevin and I am crying right now thinking of you and myself and our similar experiences. I, like you, feel very overwhelmed by all the rules and responsibilities of being a Turkish woman. Its like we are born at age 30 into a family for which we do not (but desperately want) to understand. We lack the proper upbringing and training from a strong Turkish Anne. My husband and I (and now our young son) go to Turkey every summer usually for one month. Its so funny... I have years of higher education but nevertheless, every trip, I feel like an absolute moron. My Turkish family, like yours, is very warm and friendly... but still it is difficult. I remember meeting my husband's family for the first time in Buyukada 5 years ago, where they summer every year. My husband had talked about his mother like she was a magician, mind-reader, and genius (which she is). I remember crying at the dinner table when she told me that she accepted me... Its true, the culture is very different but very warm.... I hope to someday feel truly, fully at home.

renai said...

mberkmen, thanks so much for coming and reading and commenting. So, so true what you say. We can feel like total morons over the most basic things. It's really hard to explain to someone who hasn't experienced it from a foreign perspective. My inlaws are forever impressed with my Turkish language which pops out from time to time. I find it hard to talk around them in Turkish because everyone is so loud and generally outspoken. I find one on one much easier and tend to hide in the kitchen if a whole group of visitors have arrived. I hope in time those occasions become easier. I feel more comfortable in my own home entertaining our friends, but that also throws up a whole heap of new challenges when everyone is checking out how your çorba is, how fluffy your pilav is and if there is enough salt in the meat!! Lets hope our new culture continues to make us feel more and more at home as time goes by.
thanks again,
renai.

Emily ohhhsweetturkey said...

Dear Renai and Mberkman, Yes, thank you both for your thoughts. I am also the new american gelin of the family. My father-in-law is also ill and tells me so often he loves me with eyes filled with tears. My mother-in-law also throws water at the car(sign of good travels) and crys everytime we leave. I find the role of gelin a little overwhelming! I try so hard to help my mother-in-law in her selfless but constant cleaning and cooking. When I first came to the family she wouldn't let me help but I think it is because she considered me a guest but finally I have broken through and have been trying to live up to this extremely nurturing and constant role. I have been blessed with wonderful in-laws. Thanks for your stories! It is good to read similar stories to my own. Makes me feel like not such a "yobanci" in my new host land.